MK1 Jetta coupe, diesel

[87vr6]

Yup. From the craigslist car thread. Dude wanted 400... I gave 300 and drove away with it. It's rough, as any 28 year old car can be, but generally seems solid. It's a spotty runner, but hopefully I'll have it solid before long. Dash is crack free, interior is mostly complete and completely agreeable. I don't intend to do much with it, other than make it a TD, slam it, maybe a nice set of wheels, but most importantly, just make it 100% reliable for a strong DD.... Ignore this thread if you want, progress will be painfully slow.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y76/volksron/Car%20Pictures/IMG00522.jpg

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[JessaBug]

I think a slow build/refresh is required with a Mk1 :p

We've had the car almost 2 years and we're just now getting ready for the rebuild to start. Nice to see another Mk1 Jetta diesel running around.

[wolfsburged]

I have a more complete passenger side headlight surround if you want it. Also some ratty tail lights.

[87vr6]

Thanks for the offer. I'd take the drivers side tail for sure. I'm looking to put the euro lights on the front, so I won't be requiring the surround, again thanks.

Yea JessaBug, I really can't wait to just start beating on this thing.

[IN-FLT]

sweet

[wolfsburged]

I see someone has removed the 50A fusible link for your glow plugs as well. Looks like it has AC too..

[87vr6]

I see someone has removed the 50A fusible link for your glow plugs as well. Looks like it has AC too..

Do tell about this fusible link? Also, yes it has A/C, couldn't tell you if it works. Both the sliders for the climate control are missing. Are they the same as MK2 ones? I have a plethora of those.

I have a feeling I'm going to remove this motor, rewire everything, freshen the motor up, before I'm comfortable driving this on DD basis.

[JessaBug]

Sounds like the same plan as we have. We've been driving it but it really needs a rebuild. Fuel mileage has just been going down since we started driving it. Highest was 40, and its down to about 31mpg. We'll be sending out the turbo to get redone and sending the IP to Giles in Canada as well. Taking the engine out and rebuilding, and fixing the AC while the motor is out.

[wolfsburged]

Do tell about this fusible link? Also, yes it has A/C, couldn't tell you if it works. Both the sliders for the climate control are missing. Are they the same as MK2 ones? I have a plethora of those.

I have a feeling I'm going to remove this motor, rewire everything, freshen the motor up, before I'm comfortable driving this on DD basis.

The fusible link PN is N-017-125-1. On the firewall right above your heater core coolant lines there is a black plastic holder where you have two heavy gauge wires both connected to a single terminal. Those wires are supposed to be on either side and a fusible link going between them of 50A rating.

I don't know if the Mk2 sliders are the same, never owned a mk2 for any longer than to part out.

You have the oddball washer fluid pump too. It seems they only put those on some of the Jetta diesels, the swallowtail Rabbits, and old Audi 100s. Correct OEM ones are hard to find, but if you need a new one I just got one of these:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/22824/nm/Audi_100_VW_Dasher_Rabbit_Windshield_Washer_Pump

[wolfsburged]

Also, I can highly recommend this Viton fuel line kit from GreaseWorks if you ever intend to run biodiesel:
http://www.greaseworks.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=27_40&products_id=482

It also comes with replacement clear line for your fuel filter to injection pump. That hard, brown tubing is actually supposed to be clear and once it is clear is a very nice troubleshooting indicator. You can see if you are getting air bubbles or anything odd. The Viton lines are a little pricey but very high quality and will withstand anything, and Greaseworks has very good pricing for "by the foot" line. We did that on our Jetta. Also can recommend if you are seeing airpockets this causes the diesels to plume white smoke, can be mistaken for a blown HG. Check all of your banjo fittings on the fuel filter and IP and make sure you have the correct crush washers there. You can get new at a Bosch injection shop, such as Diesel Injection here in Raleigh area.

[kcfoxie]

I think the two MK1 Diesels need to meet.... and take lots of pics... and have lots of baby mk2 diesels....

[87vr6]

Oh, the fusible link is there then. Might be hard to see in the pictures, but there's definitely a terminal device with two wires on the firewall. From what I was reading last night, I'll eventually just put in a bypass for the GP system anyways.

Yeah, I'll have to dig to find some CC sliders for the car, I'm going to lose the A/C anyways, again eventually.

The washer pump and system will likely go away as well.

The fuel lines will def be replaced, as of right now, it's having a hard time running/starting, and I think it's due to fuel supply, which I cant see because of that nasty brown line. I don't see the need to go with bio-diesel products now, but thanks for the link.


And yes, Foxie, eventually it would be cool to get these two cars together. Photos, beer. Petroleum products. Mmmmm...

Where have you been?

[JessaBug]

If I remember correctly, the Viton was the cheapest we could find for clear fuel lines, but I could be wrong. Its certainly a great thing to have the clear lines. When we first tried running it, we were having to hold a light behind the nasty brown line to see if there were air bubbles. We're still getting some little bubbles, which we think is due to the IP. Car has 180+k on it, unknown for certain (odo wasn't working when we got the car) so some leaking isn't shocking.

Definitely need to get our two cars together. They're the same color too. I saw you are also hanging out in the Mk1 forums on the 'Tex. Great place to pick up some of those trim pieces you're missing. Hows the windshield on it? Ours was leaking a bit, as Mk1s are prone to.

[wolfsburged]

Oh, the fusible link is there then. Might be hard to see in the pictures, but there's definitely a terminal device with two wires on the firewall. From what I was reading last night, I'll eventually just put in a bypass for the GP system anyways.

Yeah, I'll have to dig to find some CC sliders for the car, I'm going to lose the A/C anyways, again eventually.

The washer pump and system will likely go away as well.

The fuel lines will def be replaced, as of right now, it's having a hard time running/starting, and I think it's due to fuel supply, which I cant see because of that nasty brown line. I don't see the need to go with bio-diesel products now, but thanks for the link.


And yes, Foxie, eventually it would be cool to get these two cars together. Photos, beer. Petroleum products. Mmmmm...

Where have you been?

I can see the holder is there, it just looks like both lines are going to the same terminal as if it has no longer got the fuse inside.

You don't want to go without glow plugs. Are you referring to just running a manual toggle for the GPs? One complaint I have is that when the engine is warm, the glows don't seem to fire long/at all and it cranks longer than if it is bone cold. But that is with low compression too..

Chad/Mr. Chan called me today and said there is a 4-dr mk1 Jetta @ LKQ in Durham in good shape, minus engine if you need stuff.

[wolfsburged]

Also come on over to vwdiesel.net forums. The happening place for IDI talk.

[87vr6]

I can see the holder is there, it just looks like both lines are going to the same terminal as if it has no longer got the fuse inside.
You don't want to go without glow plugs. Are you referring to just running a manual toggle for the GPs? One complaint I have is that when the engine is warm, the glows don't seem to fire long/at all and it cranks longer than if it is bone cold. But that is with low compression too..
Chad/Mr. Chan called me today and said there is a 4-dr mk1 Jetta @ LKQ in Durham in good shape, minus engine if you need stuff.
Also come on over to vwdiesel.net forums. The happening place for IDI talk.


Yes, after looking at it again, I see what you mean about the terminal. Yes, I was referring to a manual toggle, but I'm going to do some research to have a piggyback system, as what I have read so far is the factory VW relay system is good when it's good, but bad when it's bad.

Chad sent me a PM with a few pics of it, good to know there's something somewhat local to pick from, at least slightly pick from.

vwdiesel.net..... Done and done. I haven't posted yet, but I registered sat night ;) That's where I've been doing some reading the last few nights.

If I remember correctly, the Viton was the cheapest we could find for clear fuel lines, but I could be wrong. Its certainly a great thing to have the clear lines. When we first tried running it, we were having to hold a light behind the nasty brown line to see if there were air bubbles. We're still getting some little bubbles, which we think is due to the IP. Car has 180+k on it, unknown for certain (odo wasn't working when we got the car) so some leaking isn't shocking.

Definitely need to get our two cars together. They're the same color too. I saw you are also hanging out in the Mk1 forums on the 'Tex. Great place to pick up some of those trim pieces you're missing. Hows the windshield on it? Ours was leaking a bit, as Mk1s are prone to.

Good to know about the Viton line... guess I'll whip out the old credit card tonight and get some on the way. Don't know about the windshield yet, haven't had any weather since I got it, but I don't see evidence of any leaking internally. It does have a chip, so I can find a good front, I might replace, hit up the small rust spots, and have a nice sealed window.


If I just want to change the belt and tensioner, do I really need all the tools to ensure nothing moves? Or would I be good with the marking method where I make a mark with white out on each pulley and corresponding tooth on the belt. Everything must line back up this way, you know....?

[JessaBug]

I know we made sure nothing moved when we did ours. It also sat like that for several months due to the problems that replacing the water pump created (nothing like breaking off a rusty bolt in the most hard to reach place...and only having very few weekends to work on it due to going to college while trying to get this car running). VWdiesel can probably give you a better answer as to if you can do the marking method. Do you have the IP timing tool? Bill can probably direct you to some of the how-to's we used when doing the timing. Pretty sure we just used the Bentley for the belt/water pump job, but I know there was a specific how-to we used when setting the pump timing. He can probably also verify about the clear line. Might be that the viton was about all we could find that was clear and good for biodiesel (which our car will be running eventually). He does more of the research on stuff...I learn better being hands on so I wait until we get a chance to work on the car to learn :)

[87vr6]

So, I siphoned out the little bit of fuel remaining in the tank. Was all of 2-3 ounces, so I think I about ran it out of fuel yesterday when I tried driving it. I put 3ish gallons in today with some diesel treatment stuff, a fresh battery, and cranked her. Started after about 30 seconds, ran, but generally was unresponsive to throttle inputs, would rev some, but not as much as I know it should

I had it floored, and it sounded like it was at maybe 2000 rpms? But the whole time, it was making a popping noise, and rocking pretty good in the engine bay, to me (an un-experienced diesel guy) like 1 cylinder isn't getting fuel/ignition. When the motor stops, I can see some air (tiny to medium bubbles) making their way back into the fuel filter.

here's a video, though you can't really hear the popping I described above, though when the motor momentarily rocks very hard, thats when the popping noise occurs.
YouTube- MVI 2223

Whatcha initially think?

[JessaBug]

Doesn't sound right. Maybe a timing issue? It sounds like a harsh rattle (as Bill says, like rocks in a can), instead of the deeper diesel clack. Here's our thread on our car. We have some video from when we ran it the first time, definite difference in sound. Also some video later on of when its been running more recently, after doing the timing, etc. http://forums.ncdubs.org/showthread.php?t=11115

Bill corrected me, the clear line isn't viton, but the kit comes with the clear line. Its a nylon, he thinks. He said its hard to find otherwise. But the clear line is definitely a valuable thing to have.

[VDUBNLUVN]

that sounds rough.

compression check?

[wolf_walker]

Sounds like the IP is sucking air, usually at the input shaft seal. If luck it's just the seal, if not it's the housing/bushing. Feed the pump/filter from a separate jug of new fuel and see what it does, if you have a low pressure pump feed it fuel that way. Low as in quite low, carb PSI low, unless the pump is fresh. It can take forever to bleed the fuel system, open the injector lines a little at the injector while it's running if it will stay running and let them bleed a bit. Odds are it needs injectors, if it's clanging badly when it does run and smoking like hell there is probly an injector sticking, that will make a godawful metallic noise.

New/Old vw diesel mantra.
Reseal teh pump, or have it done if you aren't balsy. Get rebuild injectors. Replace the fuel filter. Check if the A1 Jetta had a plastic water separator, if it does ditch it. Visually check the lines and make sure fuel flows free from the tank and that the return line flows free as well, it'll dick up the pump timing if it will not among other things. The rollover valve likes to fill up with wax after twenty plus years too. Put a timing belt and tensioner on it, you don't need the tools but cheap as they are it makes life a lot easier, and you have exactly zero chance for error with a t-belt job on these motors. Also the pump and cam timing will be a rough guess at best if you don't have the cam lock(or make one from a door hinge) and the pump timing fitting for a dial indicator. Don't over tighten the belt, it's huge and cogged, it don't need to be too tight and will wear stuff out if it is. Replace the pass side motor mount while in there, and a water pump, beware broke WP bolts. Check the valve adjustment while the cover is off, they were tighter with age, but do wear very slowly. Replace the glow plugs with Duraterms, replace both the temp senders, one for gauge and one for GP's (as a note to previous mention of hard warm starts, you shouldn't need the plugs unless it's been off for at least three hours plus, that being said some GP relay's handle the resistance from the sender differently and make a different decision than others will about when or how long they think the plugs ought to be on, even among the same part numbers). Replace that clear line from the filter to the IP, it's cheap to buy or make and is a first step diag tool (visible bubbles make sad diesel).
It should run then and you can evaluate further. You could buy a cheap diesel comp tester from harbor freight, but these things will putter along forever with low compression, just be annoying to start in winter and eat a little more oil than usual.
If it runs and starts alright, replace the rest of the motor mounts and go from there. No need to pull motor for wiring, there are only a few wires in there and they are all on teh front drivers side of the motor, no sweat. I can assemble these silly things in my sleep anymore.

And you suck for getting a cool A1 coupe D cheap. :)

[87vr6]

Holy heart failure batman! Seriously though, thanks for all the advice.

I'm waiting until I get some major progress along with my other 2 cars before I start really messing around with this one. However, I have tried some stuff youre talking about. I ran the car from a jug of ATF, and it chugged along fine, but still didnt sound right, so I'm assuming the timing is off some. No bother, I have most of the stuff laying around to convert this to a TD, which I'm going to do.

So, yes, I am going to pull the motor, only so I can eliminate the AC, do the serp belt swap, change the water pump, throw on the turbo IP, fresh gaskets for it, re-shim the lifters, etc..... and yes, re-do as much wiring as possible.


All of this will happen once I get my MK2 coupe into a semi-complete state, and sell it, so I'll have some cash to play around with this thing, and be able to do everything necessary at once.


Sounds like the IP is sucking air, usually at the input shaft seal. If luck it's just the seal, if not it's the housing/bushing. Feed the pump/filter from a separate jug of new fuel and see what it does, if you have a low pressure pump feed it fuel that way. Low as in quite low, carb PSI low, unless the pump is fresh. It can take forever to bleed the fuel system, open the injector lines a little at the injector while it's running if it will stay running and let them bleed a bit. Odds are it needs injectors, if it's clanging badly when it does run and smoking like hell there is probly an injector sticking, that will make a godawful metallic noise.

New/Old vw diesel mantra.
Reseal teh pump, or have it done if you aren't balsy. Get rebuild injectors. Replace the fuel filter. Check if the A1 Jetta had a plastic water separator, if it does ditch it. Visually check the lines and make sure fuel flows free from the tank and that the return line flows free as well, it'll dick up the pump timing if it will not among other things. The rollover valve likes to fill up with wax after twenty plus years too. Put a timing belt and tensioner on it, you don't need the tools but cheap as they are it makes life a lot easier, and you have exactly zero chance for error with a t-belt job on these motors. Also the pump and cam timing will be a rough guess at best if you don't have the cam lock(or make one from a door hinge) and the pump timing fitting for a dial indicator. Don't over tighten the belt, it's huge and cogged, it don't need to be too tight and will wear stuff out if it is. Replace the pass side motor mount while in there, and a water pump, beware broke WP bolts. Check the valve adjustment while the cover is off, they were tighter with age, but do wear very slowly. Replace the glow plugs with Duraterms, replace both the temp senders, one for gauge and one for GP's (as a note to previous mention of hard warm starts, you shouldn't need the plugs unless it's been off for at least three hours plus, that being said some GP relay's handle the resistance from the sender differently and make a different decision than others will about when or how long they think the plugs ought to be on, even among the same part numbers). Replace that clear line from the filter to the IP, it's cheap to buy or make and is a first step diag tool (visible bubbles make sad diesel).
It should run then and you can evaluate further. You could buy a cheap diesel comp tester from harbor freight, but these things will putter along forever with low compression, just be annoying to start in winter and eat a little more oil than usual.
If it runs and starts alright, replace the rest of the motor mounts and go from there. No need to pull motor for wiring, there are only a few wires in there and they are all on teh front drivers side of the motor, no sweat. I can assemble these silly things in my sleep anymore.

And you suck for getting a cool A1 coupe D cheap. :)

[jetta-the-hut]

subscribed ron, any progress?

[87vr6]

I bought stuff for it. Filter, water pump, timing belt, just waiting for my timing tools kit to get here... Coming from germany.