Project 1.8T MK2 [Archive] - NCDubs | VW Audi Porsche Performance News & Tuning Forums

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zooyork155
May 1st, 2007, 06:49 PM
No it's not a 20v, but it's still a 1.8l :cool:
Ultimately it will become a counterflow 8vT but as of yesterday it still looks like this:
http://www.ncdubs.com/photopost/data/533/medium/100_1712_Large_.JPG
Empty Engine Bay
http://www.ncdubs.com/photopost/data/533/medium/100_1711.JPG

So yeah, it needs a good bit of work but it's coming along. I figure documenting my progress here will keep me motivated.

-So far I've got the front end completely disassembled. The subframe is out and cleaned up as well as the control arms. Still can't get the damn tie-rods and ball joints off the knuckles though.

-Removed the rub strips, fender flares, side markers, and antenna. Lots more cleaning to do before I start on the body work though.

-Interior is totally gutted and I'll be using the stock dash to fabricate a custom one.

By the end of the summer I should have it back together with all new parts (except the struts/springs 'cause I need more $$$) but at that point it will still be only a NA digi2 8v.

Lastly a P-shop of what it will hopefully look like when finished.
http://www.ncdubs.com/photopost/data/533/MK21.jpg

jetta-the-hut
May 1st, 2007, 07:40 PM
Im wanting to do the same thing with the headlights I'm going with Laminx yellow film for my Aero's. Those rims look like Nippon F2 rims?

Sound like a good plan, If your going to go with a 8vt, are you going with a ABA or g60 block?

The 9a I got has oil squirts if I do decide later to turbo!

zooyork155
May 1st, 2007, 08:53 PM
They're supposed to be Rota slipstreams but I plan on getting Flik Blasts when they re-release them as 15x7's.

I've actually got a complete PF engine that I'm going to rebuild for boost. Not too sure about the turbo yet though. Maybe a super60 but I might do something a little smaller.

zooyork155
May 3rd, 2007, 01:17 PM
Put the new (used) front seats in. Thanks, Stefano! Big improvement over the dry rotted, mildew ridden originals.

Cleaned up the front subframe as well as more scrubbing in the engine bay.

This project would move along a lot faster if I didn't have to do little things like eat, sleep, work, etc. :)

zooyork155
May 8th, 2007, 06:27 PM
Little progress from the last two weeks:

Cleaned up under the hood a bit
http://www.ncdubs.com/photopost/data/533/medium/100_1715.JPG

Pics of the flares, rubstrips, and side markers off
http://www.ncdubs.com/photopost/data/533/medium/100_1713.JPG
http://www.ncdubs.com/photopost/data/533/medium/100_1714.JPG

All the front end pieces cleaned up waiting to reinstall
http://www.ncdubs.com/photopost/data/533/medium/100_1717.JPG

And the seats I got from UnitedGTI's Rabbit
http://www.ncdubs.com/photopost/data/533/medium/100_1718.JPG

I finally got the tie-rod ends and ball joints out as well. Only one of the ball joints gave me some trouble but Evan's advice to beat the ish out of it worked and it slid right out :oddeye-hellyeah:

Slow and steady but it's coming along.

Yareka
May 8th, 2007, 11:32 PM
go rob:oddeye-hellyeah:

Talareno
May 13th, 2007, 10:25 AM
Wow, huge improvement in the engine bay! I would repack the inner CV joints w/ fresh grease just before reinstalling them (they look kind of dry in your picts) & no gear oil should be in that joint or a seal is missing/leaking, $1.99 for 3 oz. tube of CV joint grease from Autozone (Important: cooked one 3 weeks ago, thought it was going to fall off, had to buy a whole new axle since new inner joints are almost as much as a whole new axle).

zooyork155
May 13th, 2007, 11:17 AM
Thanks for the advice! The CV joints are definitely on the list.

pinky
May 14th, 2007, 12:12 PM
you can buy a boot kit... it comes with a tube of grease... pretty easy to do, and i just recently did the outer boots on my mk2 (took longer to get the axles out than to swap the boots)

they generally run about $20/side for the inners.