Oil Catch can install write-up?

[Vampire Cockroach]

I know this has been beaten to death and/or people keep asking on these forums about the catch can install, but does someone have or can provide a fairly detailed write-up as to how to install it? Does the n249 have to be bypassed, and which hoses need to be blocked off/ tee'd in order to hook up the can?

Thanks

[a4wdhybrid]

how is the operation of your diverter valve and installing a catch can related?

[Vampire Cockroach]

i dont know

just seems to me that from the people i've talked to in the past about installing the catch can, they have mentioned something about modifying or capping off some part of the 249/pcv system?

if you can tell i dont know too much about the whole install, that's why im starting the thread in the first place

[a4wdhybrid]

n249 is not anyway related to the pcv system

[Vampire Cockroach]

ok thanks for clearing that up

can anyone tell me which hoses to use?

[a4wdhybrid]

took me a total of about 30 seconds to find this

http://forums.fourtitude.com/zerothread?id=2660986

there are 2 main points you use on the motor...t those two together, route it to the catch can, then run a hose from the can to the tip

you can also clean up/remove a lot of the stock stuff in the process

[Yareka]

Like ian said, you can make it very simple or complicated as all hell depending on what stock parts you pull out. Once you visualize what you are doing its really not that hard. You have ventilation coming from the valve cover and the crankcase that carry nasty oil vapors. These lines are plugged into your intake to aid in the ventilation process by pulling that air through. You dont want that air going through your intake because everything from your inlet pipe to your intercooler get coated with oil. Oil in the intake makes charge pipes blow off and it ultimately makes the ecu pull timing=bad. So your catch can just sits between this ventilation and the intake tract to catch these vapors.

Simplest way could be done in the home depot parking lot so you could keep buying/trying different size fittings from the plumbing dept. On the driver side of the head, follow the y hose connection where the valve cover and crankcase ventilation line come together. Where they come together you tap into those lines with a fitting that connects to one of your catch can lines. You mount your catch can wherever you can. The other line coming from the can connects to the dv looking thing sticking out of your inlet pipe. I bypassed the dv looking thing but its up to you. Thats the simple way of hooking it up. Best way to do it is to bypass that fragile y piece with some of your catch can tubing...making a t that then goes into the can.

Good luck:upyeah:

[Vampire Cockroach]

you da man, i was looking for something that describes what i am about to do

guess I will attempt to do this tomorrow and/ or friday

what kind of shit is safe to pull out? i dont want to pull something then find that I am throwing codes left and right, or even worse, start losing fluids out of all the wrong places

[a4wdhybrid]

there is a sort of plastic "box" on the side of the block

there is a "t" coming off of it w/ a valve inside it that connects to a smaller hose that connects to the bottom of the intake mani

there is another hose that goes from the other side of the "t" to a plastic line i believe that connects to a "y" shaped hose thats also connected to the valve cover

the other end of that "y" hose runs over to that space ship looking deal on the tip

starting from the "t" underneath the intake mani going forward can all be removed..make sure to cap the intake mani

so basically youd have a hose going from that "box" on the block and a hose coming off the valve cover connecting to a "t" that connects to the catch can

the other nipple on the catch can would connect to the space ship deal or the tip itself

dont quote me word for word on this..i may have missed something..i dont own a transverse car...there should be a suction pump somewhere in there and if you had a longitudal motor i could tell you exactly what to do

if you have any fluids come out then you did something totally wrong

hope some of that makes sense and i wrote all of this assuming you realize that you are going to need some random fittings and a plastic "t" and prob a few hours to get it all done

[zooyork155]

I've got a short write up on my cardomain site:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/766353/5
It's at the bottom of the page.

[Vampire Cockroach]

Finished this today and removed my N249 and N112 system thanks to vortex and Rob's write-ups... big thanks to Ian and Kevin for the help as well!

http://www.ncdubs.com/photopost/data/503/medium/catch_can_install_finished_001.jpg



http://www.ncdubs.com/photopost/data/503/medium/catch_can_install_finished_003.jpg



http://www.ncdubs.com/photopost/data/503/medium/catch_can_install_001.jpg
before ^



http://www.ncdubs.com/photopost/data/503/medium/catch_can_install_finished_011.jpg
after ^



http://www.ncdubs.com/photopost/data/503/medium/catch_can_install_finished_004.jpg

Car runs fine- it might be placebo but I feel like throttle response is a little better now that the dv recirc hose goes straight into the intake manifold.

[a4wdhybrid]

you need a tip

and a valve cover gasket and possibly a chain tensioner gasket

[Vampire Cockroach]

?

[a4wdhybrid]

turbo inlet pipe

i figured the valve cover and chain tensioner gasket were pretty self explanatory

glad you got the catch can installed

[Yareka]

uh oh...you might get a cel for removing that n112.

[a4wdhybrid]

sec air..incorrect flow

[Vampire Cockroach]

nah, i put resistors on each of the harnesses so they wouldnt throw codes.

[Yareka]

did you get the resistors listed on vortex(330ohm 10watt)...cause I need me some of those. Also check vag and see if it is throwing soft codes. I'm sure you'd have to unplug the harness to throw a resistor in there, have your cold starts changed at all?

If that works out, you can remove your sec air pump and that hard line running in front of your intake mani.

[Vampire Cockroach]

nah man actually the only ones i could find were 1w 100 ohm... the site i was using listed 2w ~27 ohm as sufficient but the guy at radio shack (who probably didnt know his shit) said that the 1w ones would be fine... well so far i havent thrown any cel's but I am going to check the soft codes right now since you mention it.

cold starts still go into warm up mode for some reason, I just can't figure that one out... yeah I do want to remove the secondary air pump though if it wont harm anything in the engine.

[Vampire Cockroach]

yep just scanned it a few mins ago and i got ian's code:

1 Fault Found:
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected
P0411 - 35-00 - -


Apparently the resistors are working though, earlier when i just had the harnesses unplugged, the n112 and n249 harness unattached codes popped up (of course) but now I am not seeing those. Should I go higher on resistor rating and see if that'll prevent the aforementioned code from popping up again?

Kevin, do you have a link for the vortex diy you are using that told you the 10w resistor thing? I'd like to take a quick look at that

[Yareka]

I'll see what I can find

here it is
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2658998

[Vampire Cockroach]

so i realized on my trip to radioshack a few minutes ago that I dont know shit about resistors


*of course* i couldnt find a 10w 330-ohm resistor, closest thing they had was a 10w 100-ohm one (and that shit was huge). They also had some 1/2w 330-ohm resistor as well- the question is, should i buy a resistor based on the ohm-age or the wattage rating on it??

[a4wdhybrid]

1 Fault Found:
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected
P0411 - 35-00 - -
no n112 = no combi valve operation = no flow from sec air = cel

[pinky]

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=016-330

[Vampire Cockroach]

ok so uhh... i took out the SAI pump today, left in the combi valve for now (requires a coolant drain in order to pull the valve from the side of the head and block it off)

well i took all that stuff off, never started the car once in the morning, got done and started it, and....




it started like usual in warm-up mode. without the SAI pump.


wtf?

[Yareka]

Even though pump isnt there, kombi valve probably still opens up to let fresh air to the exhaust valves.

[a4wdhybrid]

yea..you atleast need to block off the combi valve or the hose going to it..dont leave it open..i blocked the vacuum port on top of the valve as well

why are you taking all this stuff off anyways?

[Vampire Cockroach]

why are you taking all this stuff off anyways?

because its fun... lol

honestly just to make a little more space in my engine and reducing the clutter so I can work in there easier... plus i hate that cold start warm-up mode...

[zooyork155]

Am I to understand that removing the pump/combi valve helps with the cold start stutters from say, I don't know, not having a MAF?

[a4wdhybrid]

if you dont have a maf then the sec air pump never comes on

so if you dont have a maf and are still having cold start studders then its not from the sec air

[zooyork155]

That's what I thought. It doesn't do it often but every once in a while it's a bit rougher than I'd like.

[Vampire Cockroach]

yeah its not that mine was that rough, its just annoying as shit with the loud exhaust (which is gone- im back to stock now) and with the dogbone mount (the whole car shakes)