View Full Version : Is it chilly in here?
thom337
August 5th, 2006, 05:31 PM
:yum: Welp its finally done for real. That was probably the worst install I've done in my entire life...I'm sure I spent at least 20 hours on it, much of it spent on the frickin MAP flange and n75 bung. Car runs good, no vibrations, I took the insulation off the hood to get a little more hood clearance w/ the piping. Anywho, here are some pics of the finished product:
http://www.ncdubs.com/photopost/data/503/medium/car3.JPG
http://www.ncdubs.com/photopost/data/503/medium/car2.JPGhttp://www.ncdubs.com/photopost/data/503/medium/car1.JPG
OMGZ WHEEL GAP! I guess all the weight I took off the front, and the fact that the springs were uncompressed for 4 days got me ridin high.
http://www.ncdubs.com/photopost/data/503/medium/gap.JPG
a4wdhybrid
August 5th, 2006, 05:53 PM
very nice :oddeye-hellyeah:
Yareka
August 5th, 2006, 07:13 PM
Congrats, I think you set a record for the most posts in one project. From before the purchase til completion, I believe I counted 8:D
TIMYAA
August 5th, 2006, 07:16 PM
sexy!!:eek: :D :eek:
Vampire Cockroach
August 5th, 2006, 08:04 PM
looking good man. Way to stay dedicated all the way to the end
sflemon
August 5th, 2006, 10:57 PM
This may be a dumb question, but are you OEM or BT? Cause that pipe is running much different than the OEM setup or the other bigger dollar FMIC kits which come from the "belt" side of the engine. How does that work?
Apex_1.8T
August 5th, 2006, 11:39 PM
Looks good! Not sure I'd have the patience you've shown. One question, by removing the insulation from the hood, are you putting your hood paint in jepordy due to the heat from the engine?
dekroon
August 5th, 2006, 11:57 PM
This may be a dumb question, but are you OEM or BT? Cause that pipe is running much different than the OEM setup or the other bigger dollar FMIC kits which come from the "belt" side of the engine. How does that work?
The Greddy, ATP,Kinetic and this ebay kit all use different routing. Basically you get rid of all the factory intercooler crap. The piping routes over the top of the engine and routes between the tranny and the fans. Then on the passaenger side of the core it routes up to where the rubber oem piece mates to the smic.
The big dollar kits, specifically the apr,evoms,forge all retain the factory piping and routing. Personally I hate the factory piping and routing. After the fmic kit you have basically all aluminum piping and silicon couplers. With a bigger dollar kit you retain alot of the hybrid metal/rubber held together with a coat hanger for a clamp stuff oem piping and routing.
The factory pancake pipe and the charge outlet pipe both have very questionable connectors and clamping fixtures. Both are very prone to blowing off at elavated pressures.
Yareka
August 6th, 2006, 07:30 AM
word...good explanation. Especially the "coat hanger connections" :D That thing sux.
Blue02Dub
August 6th, 2006, 11:23 AM
I had 2 of these connections loose when I bought my car. the very first one after the turbo, and the one on the inlet side of the pancake pipe.... TRASH. :(
b
sflemon
August 6th, 2006, 12:01 PM
Thanks for the info. I like the getting rid of the oem crap. Any pics of how it mates right at the turbo? That's probably the place I'm most interested in.
dekroon
August 6th, 2006, 01:33 PM
I'll see if I can take a quick engine bay pic.
In oem setup the outlet of the turbo has a 90 degree rubber coupler.
With this FMIC setup you use a straight coupler into the aluminum piping from the turbo.
Ak-Abe
August 6th, 2006, 01:39 PM
looking good man :)
TurboMatt
August 6th, 2006, 07:30 PM
Damn now that thomas did it ill have to do it:dunceblock:
evan@absolute
August 6th, 2006, 09:38 PM
have you logged intake air temps yet to see how it is cooling?
thom337
August 6th, 2006, 11:39 PM
Nah, I don't have a vag-comster or another way to measure em...if someone w/ a vag com wants to do it we can on thursday.
Vampire Cockroach
August 7th, 2006, 12:25 AM
i have vag-com if you want to use it
also still have the install cd
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