pissed off

[Vampire Cockroach]

what the fuck is going wrong here?? :thumbsdown2: :eek:

VAG-COM Version: Release 311.2-N

Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 CL
Component and/or Version: 1.8l 5V 110kW TLG04 V003
Software Coding: 06500
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
10 Faults Found:
17522 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor: B1 S2: Internal Resistance too High
P1114 - 35-00 - -
17833 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Short to Ground
P1425 - 35-00 - -
17525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating Circuit: B1 S2: Short to Ground
P1117 - 35-00 - -
17843 - Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299): Short to Ground
P1435 - 35-00 - -
17829 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112): Short to Ground
P1421 - 35-00 - -
17881 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Open Circuit
P1473 - 35-00 - -
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 35-00 - -
17523 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating Circuit: B1 S1: Short to Ground
P1115 - 35-00 - -
16518 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: No Activity
P0134 - 35-00 - -
16524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2: No Activity
P0140 - 35-00 - -


Looks almost like my fuses in the engine shorted... but I have no idea what is happening right now honestly.

I did nothing to the car, changed nothing, it was running great then all of a sudden i got a check engine light last night and I couldnt turn off the traction control light.

Has my ECU taken a shit on me, or could an easy battery unplug do the trick?

I'd also like to note that after the CEL came on, the engine stutters and chokes when the engine revs down to reach idle. It chokes to about 500 or 600 rpms then kicks back up to the normal 800.

I'm gonna clear the codes and unplug the battery and leave it unplugged for a while, check my fuses in the engine, then replug everything back up and clear readiness again to see if this shit pops back up.


:gt-bb-chongin:

[evan@absolute]

I have seen fuel pump relays going bad cause a pile of codes like that. Or you may have a loose ground connection.

[Yareka]

damn...the ecu/harness may have hiccupped there bit. Clear those codes and hope they dont come back. Prolly a freak short that wont happen again, hopefully.

Did you have that 10' whip antenna installed during the last storm:D

[Vampire Cockroach]

cleared them all and they just came back when i started the car

also unplugged everything going to the battery and replugged everything back up an hour later... nothing

I'm hoping its just a loose ground, seems like the whole in-engine fusebox is shorted out. I dont really know where to start looking either

[Yareka]

Do you have all those electrical connections with resistors(sai, n112, n249) bundled together.

Every one of those codes are emissions based.

[Vampire Cockroach]

what do you mean bundled together? if by that you mean a connection is touching metal somewhere or another connection, then no

[Yareka]

Thats exactly what I meant...ok well:o

[evan@absolute]

pull the main relay( I said fuel pump relay before but i mean main relay) open it up and look for cracked solder joints.

[Vampire Cockroach]

travis is guessing map sensor, i had a little wiper fluid leak yesterday (read: the whole reservoir) and maybe some got in the harness or something... currently im taking the bumper off so we'll see.

[evan@absolute]

all the codes are for bad circuits. o2 sensor heating etc. I don't see how a bad map sensor is going to show up as a problem in the o2 sensor heater circuit. Of course I may be wrong but when was the last time that happened:rolleyes: You have a problem with either the power supply or the ground side of those circuits. They are powered with the relay I mentioned and are grounded in different places. Therefore the problem is most likely in the power side of the circuit. My .02

[dekroon]

I think the map sensor and a few other devices are tied in the same loom on the engine harness.

On Yarkeas car it was'nt happy at all when we fired it up w/o the map plugged in. It threw almost as many codes.

I think the grounds are common between some of the sensors. ME7 has too many checks and balances BS, electrical wise.

[Vampire Cockroach]

so where should i start? maybe follow the wires (PITA...) from the aforementioned sensors and find the common grounds? I already checked the main power and grounds to the fusebox, both wires look fine to me.

edit: the only thing i found to be shorting out was a positive wire going to one of my foglights, but the fogs are on a relay by themselves.

[evan@absolute]

I think the map sensor and a few other devices are tied in the same loom on the engine harness.

On Yarkeas car it was'nt happy at all when we fired it up w/o the map plugged in. It threw almost as many codes.

I think the grounds are common between some of the sensors. ME7 has too many checks and balances BS, electrical wise.
The ecu grounds are common for some of the stuff but it set a code for the evap system test pump circuit. I think that grounds at the back of the car. That is why I said relay. Pull it out and open it up. I have seen this sort of thing on both 1.8t and tdi cars. The relay may still be bad even if it looks ok but it probably has visable cracks in the solder on the board. Once I get to the shop I will look at the cd and see which relay # it is.

[Vampire Cockroach]

well, as I look at the codes that popped up again, i realize that two of them are different.


18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17880 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Short Circuit to Ground
P1472 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent


Where is power supply terminal 30? and could this be the answer to the problem?

Also, where does the evap leak detection pump ground? maybe a shared ground by the sensors of the aforementioned "failed" components?


edit: i also checked the ecu grounds under the rain try and the two relays inside the engine; everything looks like it is connected properly.

[evan@absolute]

dude do you even read when I post? I'm one of the only mother fuckers on here that really works on these things and it doesnt look like you even read what I post. You would have already fixed it if you did.

[pinky]

yeah.. just fucking listen to evan.. he's probably right.. :D

[Vampire Cockroach]

thing is i dont know where to start looking for that relay.. too many of them. You are right, it is either a relay or how it is grounded, but where i can find it is beyond me.

did you find the relay #?

might just bring it into you and pay you to fix it if it gets too complicated

[dekroon]

The relay is in postion 4 it has a number of 409 on it

[Vampire Cockroach]

thanks

[a4wdhybrid]

dude do you even read when I post? I'm one of the only mother fuckers on here that really works on these things and it doesnt look like you even read what I post. You would have already fixed it if you did.
lol omg lol

:gt-ogb-spank:

[sweaty meat hammer]

I think I have a boost leak:D

[Vampire Cockroach]

lol omg lol

:gt-ogb-spank:

yeah hes probably right, half of the problem is that i am dumb and need things explained to me more than other people :dunceblock:

[Vampire Cockroach]

ok well i just pulled relay 409, popped it open.. all the solder connections look fine :gt-lgb-paranoid:

[a4wdhybrid]

still doesnt mean its not bad..some part of it could be burned up

we sell a lot of them @ work

i wasnt referring to you being dumb...evan knows his shit...you didnt even seem to acknowledge his posts by verifying and/or questioning any information he posted

ask no questions..tell no consequences ;)

[sweaty meat hammer]

I said I have a damn Boost Leak Bitches!!!!:mong:

[Vampire Cockroach]

so should I just buy a new relay? Does anyone have one I can test to make sure that is the source of the problem?

[a4wdhybrid]

i would buy whatever i thought was going to fix the problem

[Vampire Cockroach]

does flow have that relay in stock? how much?

I'll prolly show up there tomorrow or give you a call ahead of time to check on it.

If its a somewhat common problem (Evan, I guess you have seen this problem before, or something similar?) I guess its worth a try

[Vampire Cockroach]

well the relay didn't fix the problem; guess i'm back to square 1

[dekroon]

Are still throwing all of those codes? or did some of them go away?

[Vampire Cockroach]

same codes as before...

[dekroon]

When you clear them do they instantly come back?

[Vampire Cockroach]

yeah, as soon as i turn on the car

the traction control light comes on first, then followed by the CEL

[a4wdhybrid]

you clear the codes and they instantly come back?

did you check the fuse box on top of the battery?

[Vampire Cockroach]

yes, they come back as soon as i re-cycle the ecu and turn the car back on

yeah that was the first thing i checked, although i don't have a fuse tester, everything looks like it should

the power wire from the battery to the fuse box looks fine though, and all the battery connections are good as far as i can tell

[Vampire Cockroach]

can i annoy you guys and ask for any more ideas?


I think tomorrow im just going to start digging and following wires to their grounds, although im not really expecting to find anything :mad:


btw what is that black box located under the windshield wiper motor assembly?

[evan@absolute]

I'll play again. You need to take a wiring diagram and find what these components have in common. 1 they are all run by the ecu. The problem with that is you just don't see many ecu failures where the car still runs. They don't all ground in the same place if you have the evap leak pump circuit code still. So you are still left with power supply in my opinion. I would bet the maf is involved since you have the esp light on. Where does the maf get power? That's where the wiring diagram comes into play. Also then where do the o2 sensor heater circuits get power? Those would be the things I would check first. I think they are all on either the main ecu relay or the fuel pump relay. I assume you have a bently at the ready since you were trying to look at this.
Which relay did you get from Ian? I will try and look at the wiring again tomorrow. Relist all the codes that come back also.

[a4wdhybrid]

he got a 1j0 906 383c fuel pump relay, #409

[Vampire Cockroach]

he got a 1j0 906 383c fuel pump relay, #409

... which if anyone needs one, I have one for sale (flow doesnt accept returned electronics parts :smack: )


Evan- thanks for that, I understood that a lot better than at first. I'll scan again tomorrow and post back up. I don't have a bentley but I know somewhere that I can borrow one. Hopefully that'll be the source of a solution.


.. sorry if I'm being annoying, im just kinda freaking out because i only have a week to get this fixed and to get the car inspected before i go off to school, as well as taking care of a ton of other shit concerning school :dunceblock:

[spence]

You should consider employing the services of a one Cameron Conover.

[dekroon]

17843 - Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299): Short to Ground
P1435 - 35-00 - -
17829 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112): Short to Ground
P1421 - 35-00 - -

I overlooked your codes again and you are having some issues with your bypassing of the n112 and n249. If the bypass is proper you should'nt get those short to ground codes.

After saying that, I'd remove the resistors and setup the n112 and n249 as they are in stock setup.

If those are shorting to ground that is probably causing the rest of the codes.

The n249 needs to see around 30ohms to be bypassed, but that's only part of it. More than likely the load from the 12-14v fried your small surface resitor. You need something rated at like 30ohms 45W over a large surface area.

[Vampire Cockroach]

After saying that, I'd remove the resistors and setup the n112 and n249 as they are in stock setup.

If those are shorting to ground that is probably causing the rest of the codes.


One step ahead of you ;)

I have the n112 and n249 hooked up electronically, i just plugged all the lines going to them and left my bypass hoses as i installed them doing the bypass.

Travis, do you have a bentley?

[Vampire Cockroach]

alright, here are the codes that pop up right as i start the car:

VAG-COM Version: Release 311.2-N

Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 CL
Component and/or Version: 1.8l 5V 110kW TLG04 V003
Software Coding: 06500
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
7 Faults Found:
17833 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Short to Ground
P1425 - 35-00 - -
17525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating Circuit: B1 S2: Short to Ground
P1117 - 35-00 - -
17843 - Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299): Short to Ground
P1435 - 35-00 - -
17829 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112): Short to Ground
P1421 - 35-00 - -
17881 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Open Circuit
P1473 - 35-00 - -
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 35-00 - -
17524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating: B1 S1: Open Circuit
P1116 - 35-00 - -


Hope this is of use.

[evan@absolute]

they get power from the fuel pump relay through fuse #s243 which is fuse #43 in the fuse box. Check that one.

[evan@absolute]

it's been like 12 minutes. is it fixed?

[pinky]

:confused:

[Vampire Cockroach]

hahahahahaha


now i am so glad why I titled this thread "pissed off"


I'm going to autozone right now to get a new fuse

:smack: :smack: :smack: :smack: :smack:

[dekroon]

While you are there buy a testlight and also figure out how to use that DMM you have.

I suspect the resistor setup caused the issue......but I could be wrong....

[evan@absolute]

atleast the last 4 pages were entertaining. Glad you got it fixed.

[Vampire Cockroach]

i feel so fucking stupid right now...

DMM travis? whats that mean?

And evan- thanks so much for the fix and looking at those diagrams. I'd still probably be fucking around with wires or waiting for a bentley to get here if it weren't for you :upyeah: :upyeah:

Travis, i think you were right and i can see how that happened. I think the ohmage of the resistors was right, just not the wattage. I'm just gonna run the n112 and n249 electronically right now and just leave the SAI pump out of the mix. no resistors or any of that bullshit.

maybe you should just delete this whole thread from ncdubs... its rather humiliating really... :crying:

[dekroon]

Eric it's all part of the learning process. Don't take it the wrong way or personal. Many of us on here do very similar things when issues arise with our cars. Panic mode sucks. Most of the time it's the simple things that are overlooked first.

The group helps bring out other ideas and is very supportive. It's not the easiest thing in the world to e-troubleshoot a car.

I think the bulk of us on here overlooked your n112 and n249 bypass becuase it was'nt mentioned much in this thread. Most of us would of also probably checked all the fuses prior as well. I made the assumption alot of that had been done, and assumed your problem was directly related to your windshield fluid container flooding. (which initially was why I suggested the map, cause it's directly beneath the container).

I don't want to speak for others, but I think had everyone been fully aware of the bypass, they would of told you to eliminate those as sources of the problem first.

A DMM is a Digital Muli Meter.

I think alot of us have learned alot from this thread and it's beneficial to the community. The next time something like this happens, we will have a better idea of where to look and what to do next. If it disappears, the time & effort resolving the problem would be wasted. All of us are here to benefit and be part of the community, so no reason to take away from it.

[zooyork155]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I remember reading somewhere on the vortex that you could remove one of the blade fuses on top of the battery so the SAI pump doesn't get any power. Not sure what that would do for you CEL-wise though.

[dekroon]

With the resistor in place or the n112 or n249 plugged in, you should be able to remove that fuse and be cel free.

If not there might be another connector on the SAI you need to trick.

People are removing them and supposedly not having any cel issue. I'm sure there is a way to get rid of it and not have to worry about the cel.

[Vampire Cockroach]

:oddeye-hellyeah: two thumbs up to coach Travis.

yeah right now here is my exact setup: the n112 and n249 are plugged in electronically. The air reservoir that sits on top of the valve cover and all its lines are removed. The combi valve has been removed and blocked off. The junctions (three, I believe...) where all these hoses meet the metal n249 and n112 body have been capped

And I just have the secondary air pump removed with no CEL problems at all. I'll have to look for that fuse thing, because I suspect the car will start up in cold start mode again now that the resistor is out of the SAI pump harness.

Once again, thanks so much for everyone who contributed in this thread :upyeah:

[Yareka]

well...whatta ya know. This thread came in real handy for me tonight. I was unplugging my resistors cause my car was running like shit and as I was covering the ends with elec tape...and the power side of the n112 grounded out on the braided oil feed line. Idle went to ish, cel came back on, and esp light lit up. Went back to this thread, sure enough fuse 43 was blown. Now its replaced and all is back to normal. Heres one for the archives:upyeah:

[Vampire Cockroach]

you got awesomed